One of the simplest things you can do in Leatherwork is learning how to “carve and stamp.” If you have ever seen a piece of leather artwork that has some kind of design on it and it wasn’t branded it was made from stamping and carving the leather. My mask, my bracelets all had some kind of carving or stamping work done to them.
If you ever wanted to learn how to do that and you were shopping at the store I would suggest you take the “Basic Carving Class” that we have on the first Saturday of the month. Recently I had some free time during my lunch break and decided to do my first “basic carve” in about 2 years.
You see I used to work on leather all the time, but after spending about 2 years as an indentured servant for a company that I’m not going to name…ever. I was unable to really practice my art, so I was a bit rusty. Before I started in on making new things I needed to kick off the rust and get back to, well, basics.
You start with a small piece of leather, usually you want 4/5 once “vegtan” leather. This is a thinner “vegtan” leather but it will still allow you to stamp and carve on it. It’s important to remember that only unfinished vegtanned leathers will take carving and stamping. If you try to stamp on upulstry leather you will either waste your time or ruin your leather.
Once you have your leather picked out, you will need a design to work on. Now some master leather workers do not need a pattern they can just carve what the see in their head. As much as I would love to gloat, I am not anywhere that level. So I traced out my design, which is a basic western floral pattern. You can use tracing film and a pen for this step. Not a whole lot to explain, find a design, trace it.
Now that you have a design it’s time for you to wet down the leather, this will make it a lot easier to carve and stamp. You don’t need to soak it, just make it wet enough that if you place it against your carotid artery and see if its cool. If the answer is YES you can now start your work.
At this point I have already placed the tracing film on my leather and using a stylus I put the design on the wet leather. Even without carving the leather you can see that the design stands out pretty well, that’s just how it works, wet leather loves taking designs. Sometimes it’s a bit too easy and you end up accidentally adding your watch band or fingernails to your leather. So be careful when you use wet leather or you may end up with a nice reverse image of your watchband.
The finished product. I used the following tools to create this image. Swivel blade, to carve the leather. Camouflager, which adds that neat clam shell look to the side of the flower. Vainer, this gives the image it’s “teeth” and you can see it well around the inside of the bottom half of the flower. Pear Shader, it’s a small tool that looks like a pear and creates a lot of awesome smooth depth in your image, best example being found on the “leaves.” The Beveler, is a tool of the devil and is easily my most hated and feared enemy, you use it when you want to add a nice 3 dimensional look to your work. Just about everything you ever do will require beveling and it’s a tough tool to master, best example is the perimeter of the piece. I used a “seeder” for the seedpod of the flower, and a “mule’s foot” to make the nice “V” mark in the center of the flower. Finally a “backgrounder” was used to make the matted look of the middle of the bottom of the flower.
I chose not to color this piece as I wanted to show the natural color of the leather. In a few weeks Ill take another photo of it to show you all how it aged.
Ric Susman